Santa Maria della Scala: The art of turning pain into wonder
In the 14th century, a road crossing Siena from north to south became crowded with pilgrims journeying toward Rome and the Holy Land. The Via Francigena became the "highway" of the Middle Ages, a route where the faithful, merchants, and travelers of all kinds passed through on their way to the great destinations of Christendom.
As if in a fairy tale, right along this road and facing the grand staircase of the Cathedral (still under construction at the time), the "Spedale" was born. Originally a xenodochium—a place offering shelter and hospitality to pilgrims—it evolved over time to care for the sick, orphans, and the destitute.
As the ultimate embodiment of charitable spirit, Santa Maria della Scala is a stratified complex, built and expanded over centuries thanks to the donations of benefactors. This is why its rooms span seven levels of the city's acropolis, showcasing a blend of diverse architectural styles.
Perhaps the most surprising aspect of its history is that it remained the primary hospital for the Sienese people until the 1990s, before being converted into a museum.
From Piazza Duomo, access to the complex begins at what was once the Women’s Infirmary (Pellegrinaio delle donne), a space specifically dedicated to welcoming female pilgrims. From here, various paths unfold, leading visitors to discover the halls, courtyards, and monumental spaces of Siena’s largest museum complex.
On this level, you will find some of the most evocative spaces, such as the splendid Old Sacristy (Sagrestia Vecchia), which houses relics acquired by the hospital over centuries, and the spectacular fresco of the Madonna del Manto (Madonna of the Mantle) by Lorenzo Di Pietro, known as Il Vecchietta.
It is impossible not to catch your breath before the magnificence of the Church of the Santissima Annunziata, a monumental space where faith inspired art to create a place of prayer within the ancient healthcare structure.
The complex is steeped in art and history that is closer to us than one might think. Take the Chapel of the Mantle (Cappella del Manto), for instance: a celestial vault enclosed by three aisles with ogival arches. Until thirty years ago, it housed the ophthalmology ward; today, it continues to "soothe the eyes" of visitors, enveloping them in its deep blues and painted stars.
Directly opposite this chapel lies a long corridor with wide vaults adorned in vibrant colors: this is the Men’s Infirmary, or simply the Pellegrinaio, the most iconic location in Santa Maria della Scala.
Originally, this was the primary reception area for those seeking assistance. In the 15th century, it was enriched with the magnificent frescoes that made it famous, painted by masters such as Lorenzo Di Pietro, Domenico di Bartolo, and Priamo della Quercia. Much like today, images were used back then to tell stories—narrating the history and the daily life of the hospital.
A keen eye will spot another trace of its medical past: on the right side of the vault in the magnificent Pellegrinaio, a "dark spot" appears through the fresco. It is actually a window cut into the masterpiece, which once allowed doctors to monitor the patients in the hall from a distance. Indeed, until the mid-20th century, this corridor was lined with beds where the sick, even in the pain of their illness, could admire the beauty of 15th-century Sienese art.
Though not everyone knows it, Santa Maria della Scala also guards the original marbles of Fonte Gaia, the exquisite fountain located in Piazza del Campo. The mastery of the sculptor Jacopo della Quercia gave these statues a soul, but not immortality; they could not withstand the elements or the touch of the curious. Eventually, they were moved here to the "Fienile" (the former Hayloft) for preservation. They were replaced in the square by the celebrated copies by Sienese artist Tito Sarrocchi, who, upon his death, bequeathed to the museum a collection of delicate plaster sculptures—an intimate expression of human affection.
Finally, the museum’s basement houses a section dedicated to the "History of the City of Siena: From its Origins to the Middle Ages." Within tunnels carved into the tuff rock lie fragments of a remote past and reconstructions of the Roman settlement of Sena Iulia. This is where the "Spedale" itself originated, and visitors can still see service areas such as the ancient wash-house and the ossuary.
Today, Santa Maria della Scala remains a thriving hub for artistic expression, hosting temporary exhibitions and evolving collections. It offers a continuous journey of discovery into Siena, its artists, and its origins—a past destined to remain in the hearts of the Sienese and all their guests.
To delight both your eyes and your palate, come and discover our "Art & Flavors" offer and treat yourself to an unforgettable holiday in Siena.
